New construction roofing is the full roof system put on a brand-new building, from the deck up, instead of a new layer over an old one. Waccamaw Roofing, LLC installs these systems for builders, general contractors and homeowners across the Grand Strand, on your schedule.
Because every layer is new, the whole assembly can be planned for the coast from day one. That includes the underlayment, flashing, airflow and the outer surface. A re-roof, by contrast, has to work around old decking and whatever is already there.
This page covers material choices, the parts of the system, attic airflow, drainage, and how we fit into your build. To see everything we do, visit our roofing services page, or call (843) 488-4181.
Picking the material early sets the look, the weather protection and the long-term value of the house. It also lets the deck, flashing and vents be planned around it. On the coast, choices rated for wind, salt air and heavy summer rain pay off.
A building near the Atlantic faces four forces that a house inland feels far less. Planning for them up front costs little. Fixing them later costs a lot.
Wind. Gusts pull hardest at the eaves, rakes, corners and ridge. Nailing in the right zone, a sealed starter row and secure ridge caps keep the first course from lifting and peeling back the rest.
Salt. Salt air speeds up rust on nails, drip edge and flashing. Parts rated for the coast last longer, and they are the pieces that tend to fail first.
Rain. Wind-driven rain finds any gap at walls, vents and valleys. Good underlayment is the last line of defense when water gets past the surface.
Heat and humidity. Long, humid summers load the attic with heat and damp air. Balanced airflow and the right insulation keep the deck dry and the rooms cooler.
None of this is exotic. It is simply doing the basics well, with materials chosen for where the building stands.
A new roof is more than the shingles you see. It is a set of layers, and each one matters.
It starts with the deck, the sheathing fastened to the rafters or trusses. Underlayment goes over the deck, with extra membrane at the eaves, valleys and other weak points. Flashing seals the valleys, walls and every pipe or vent that passes through.
At the edges, drip edge and a starter row lock the first course down. The field shingles or panels come next. Ridge cap and ridge vents finish the top.
Coastal wind zones can call for tighter nailing patterns and sealed decking. A permit and a final inspection confirm the work meets local code, and your build file should hold those sign-offs.
We work with Grand Strand homebuilders and general contractors as a roofing partner your team can schedule around. That starts with a few simple habits.
We plan around your timeline. Tell us when the deck will be ready, and we line up crews and materials to match. If weather moves the date, we tell your super right away.
We talk directly with your super. One point of contact keeps questions from getting lost between trades.
We build to spec and to code. Wind rules on the coast are strict, and the details an inspector checks are the same details that keep a roof on in a storm. The International Code Council publishes the model codes most local rules are based on.
We leave the site clean. Scrap and nails get picked up, so the next trade can start without delay.
A new build is the one time the roof, the attic and the insulation can be planned as one system. Get it right before drywall, and the house stays more comfortable and cheaper to cool for as long as the roof lasts.
Airflow works as a pair. Air comes in low at the soffits and leaves high at the ridge, sized to the attic it serves. Coastal attics run hot and humid for much of the year. An attic that cannot move air pushes heat down into the rooms and holds moisture against the deck. Exhaust without matching intake does not fix it, and it is one of the most common problems we find on homes only a few years old.
Insulation needs the same care. Baffles keep it from blocking the soffit vents. Holes through the ceiling get sealed before insulation goes in. Lighter surface colors and reflective underlayment cut heat gain too, and they cost far less to specify up front than to add later.
The roof is only the first half of moving water off a building. On a new build, the second half can be planned instead of improvised.
That means gutters sized to the area they drain, and downspouts placed where the water actually collects. It means discharge routed far enough from the foundation to matter. It also means the flashing details where most leaks start: valleys, roof-to-wall joints, and kickout flashing where a roof edge meets a wall. That small piece of metal prevents a surprising amount of rot inside finished walls.
Working this out with your builder before siding and trim go on is simple. Fixing it later means tearing into finished work.
In most builds, the roof goes on as soon as the framing and deck are ready. Getting the house dried in early protects the framing, the insulation and everything inside from rain.
Siding and trim usually follow the roof. That order lets the flashing at walls and edges be done right, with the wall flashing lapped over the roof flashing so water always runs out, never in.
Plumbing vents, exhaust fans and any skylights should be set before the roof goes on, or at least marked. Cutting new holes after the fact is where many leaks begin. A short meeting with the plumber, electrician and HVAC crew can save a lot of trouble.
A few questions up front tell you whether a roofing crew will help your build or slow it down.
Can you meet my schedule? Ask how far out they book, how they handle weather delays, and who you call when plans change.
Who is my contact? One person who answers the phone saves your super hours over the life of a project.
What is in the estimate? It should list materials, underlayment, flashing, vents, edge metal and cleanup. Vague line items lead to change orders.
How do you handle code and inspections? Your roofer should know local wind rules and be ready for the inspector.
Are you insured? Ask for proof of liability and workers comp coverage before anyone steps on the deck.
We are glad to answer all of these. Call us early in the planning stage, and we will walk the plans with you.
New construction roofing goes on a new building from the deck up. A replacement tears off the old layers first. With a new build there is no tear-off, and every layer can be planned for the coast.
Architectural shingles, standing seam metal and synthetic slate all handle wind, salt air and heavy rain well. The right one depends on cost, style and how long the owner plans to stay.
The roof usually goes first, then siding. That dries the house in early and lets the wall flashing lap over the roof flashing the right way.
Most new construction roofs take a few days to a couple of weeks. Size, pitch, material and weather all play a part.
Most coastal towns require a permit and an inspection for roofing work. Local wind and underlayment rules apply, and the roofer or builder schedules the inspection.
Pitch, gutter size and downspout spots are set during design so water moves away from the foundation. The roofer and builder should review these details together.
Yes. We work with builders across the Grand Strand, including Conway, North Myrtle Beach, Murrells Inlet and Pawleys Island.
The best time to bring us in is before framing closes. That way the materials, the order of work, local code and the weather details are set on your timeline, not in a rush.
We work on builds across the Grand Strand, from Conway to Myrtle Beach. For larger buildings, see our commercial roofing page, and for porches and low additions, our flat roofing page. Call (843) 488-4181 or request a free estimate.
Have a question about your roof? Call or email us for a free inspection.